Waterproof and breathable footwear resistant to post-treatment

ABSTRACT

A footwear includes an upper and a sole. The upper includes a membrane and at least one outer layer. The membrane is a waterproof and breathable membrane. The membrane is attached to an insole and the membrane is attached to a lower end of the outer layer. The membrane is adhered to the lower end of the outer layer by an anchoring adhesive. The anchoring adhesive is resistant to post treatment and the insole is attached to the sole.

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The invention relates to manufacturing of breathable and waterprooffootwear. The invention also relates to a method for manufacturing afootwear.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

It is known in the art that shoe comfort is not only linked to theanatomic configuration of the fit but also to optimal vapor permeabilityfrom the inside of the shoe to the outside. Vapor permeable materialsare usually naturally materials such leather or equivalent products,which however in the presence of rain or humid weather do not ensuregood waterproofing and may indeed absorb rather easily water which canalso penetrate through the stitched seams used for assembly.

One solution to this problem is to provide a layered construction of afootwear upper where one or more layers may be vapor permeable whileanother layer may be a liquid impermeable, while still being vaporpermeable. This type of layer may be called a functional layer, which ise.g. provided by a manufacturer like WL Gore, in the form of a Gore-Texmaterial, which is a layered material, having pores so that liquidmolecules cannot penetrate, and thus are vapor permeable and waterimpermeable layers.

During manufacturing of the footwear with a multilayered upper, tightand close-fitting of the layers during all manufacturing processes aredesirable.

SUMMARY

The invention relates to a footwear comprising an upper (U) and a sole(S),

wherein the upper comprising a membrane (MEM) and at least one outerlayer (OL),wherein the membrane is a waterproof and breathable membrane (MEM),wherein the membrane (MEM) is attached to an insole (IS) and themembrane (MEM) is attached to a lower end of the outer layer (OL),wherein the membrane (MEM) is adhered to the lower end of the outerlayer (LOL) by an anchoring adhesive (AA),wherein the anchoring adhesive (AA) is resistant to post treatment (PT)andwherein the insole (IS) is attached to the sole.

According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, theapplication of a durable and reliable anchoring makes it possible tominimize folding of the membrane in the footwear during or after thelasting process. This reduction of folding of the membrane is not only amatter of convenience to the user of the footwear but also a matter ofreducing stress on the membrane and/or the attachment between themembrane and the insole. Such stress may, e.g. during use, result inthat the footwear loses the intended waterproofness.

Furthermore, a durable and reliable anchoring makes it attractive tomanufacture a footwear by a direct injection process as the foaming ofthe material used for molding of the outsole will not expand into thespace between the membrane and the outer layer at the lower end of theupper.

In an embodiment of the invention, the anchoring adhesive (AA) isresistant to a steaming process from the outside during lasting. In thepresent context lasting refers to both the time when the upper is placedon the last and also the time where the upper is on the last.

In an embodiment of the invention, the post treatment (PT) is a steamingprocess performed during lasting of the upper (U). In the presentcontext lasting refers to both the time when the upper is placed on thelast and also the time where the upper is on the last.

In an embodiment of the invention, the post treatment (PT) is a heatingprocess performed during lasting of the upper. In the present contextlasting refers to both the time when the upper is placed on the last andalso the time where the upper is on the last.

In an embodiment of the invention, the anchoring adhesive (AA) isresistant to a the mechanical wear applied to the upper when placing theupper on the last.

The inventive method of making a footwear has several advantageous overprior art footwear manufacturing methods involving the adherence ofleather and waterproof membrane. The present invention makes it possibleto obtain a multilayered structure of leather and membrane mutuallybonded by an adhesive. The bonded layers of the footwear have alsoproven robust to any post treatment necessary when forming the finalfootwear.

According to embodiments of the invention, post treatment may be anytreatments during manufacturing of the footwear upper but especiallyafter the upper has been assembled and attached to the insole andespecially during the processes where the upper is lasted. Here,important processes during footwear manufacturing are e.g. to mold orform the footwear into the right shape in order to achieve a footwearwith a good fit. Post treatments may be treatments that uses e.g. heat,steam and/or radiation or any methods and processes for forming an upperof a footwear into a right shape.

It is especially important that the adhesive is not reactivated duringthe post treatment process that may result in non-adherence of the outerlayer and the membrane.

In the present context an insole should be referred to as a part of thesole, which is applied to form a kind of sock for accommodating the footof a user when the insole is stitched to the upper. This sole may besome be referred to as a strobel sole, but in the present context theinsole is functionally understood as a part of the sole which is formingan anchoring interface to the sole. It is in particular noted that thestitching of the insole in practice is performed prior to eithercementing or direct injection of a sole to the upper. The stitching isnot a part of these two types of processes in the present context. Thus,further sole(s) may be inserted into the footwear as basically a looseand exchangeable part of the footwear within the scope of the inventionwithout compromising the above understanding of what an insole is.

The sole as such may comprise a combination of the insole, an outer soleand further optional sole layers or members. In the present context aninsole may be regarded as a part of the sole due to its durableattachment to the sole. It is noted that such understanding may bederived from in different context, e.g. because the insole may rather beregarded as a part of the upper during manufacture of the footwear.

Insole

In an embodiment of the invention the insole (IS) is attached to thesole by stitching (STI).

In an embodiment of the invention, the thickness of the insole is atleast 0.1 mm, such as at least 0.5 mm, such as at least 1 mm, such asbetween 0.1 mm to 10 mm, such as between 0.5 mm to 9 mm, such as between1 mm to 8 mm, such as between 2 mm to 7 mm, such as between 3 mm to 6mm.

In an embodiment of the invention, the insole is a strobel sole.

In an embodiment of the invention, the insole comprises a non-wovenmaterial.

In an embodiment of the invention, the insole comprises a wovenmaterial.

In an embodiment of the invention, the insole material comprises foam.

Stitches

In an embodiment of the invention, the length (L) of stitches of thestitching (STI) is 1.5 mm, such as at least 3 mm, such as at least 5 mm,such as between 1.0 mm to 12 mm, such as 1 mm to 10 mm, such as 1.5 mmto 9 mm, such as 1.5 mm to 8 mm, such as 4 mm to 7 mm, such as between 5mm to 7 mm, such as 2 mm to 4 mm, such as between 6 mm to 7 mm.

In an embodiment of the invention, the length (L) of stitches of thestitching (STI) is less than 15 mm, such as less than 12 mm, such asless than 10 mm.

In an embodiment of the invention, the length (L) of stitches of thestitching (STI) is less than 10 mm, such as less than 8 mm, such as lessthan 7 mm.

In an embodiment of the invention, the length (L) of stitches of thestitching (STI) is between 1-5 stitch/cm, such as between 2-4 stitch/cm,such as 3 stitch/cm.

In an embodiment of the invention, the stitch width (W) of the stitching(STI) is at least 2 mm, such as at least 4 mm, such as between 2 mm to10mm, such 3 mm to 10 mm, such as 3 mm to 9 mm, such as 3 mm to 8 mm,such as between 5 mm to 7 mm.

In a very advantageously embodiment of the invention, the use of aninsole extending wider according to embodiments of the invention,facilitates longer stitch length. Longer stitch lengths facilitate ahigher flexibility of the upper, less folding and less use of thread.

If any damage is done to the membrane during stitching to the strobelsole it may be made waterproof by the PU or glue during when the outersole is attached.

According to embodiments of the invention, stitch length should beunderstood as the length from one stitch top to the next stitch top inthe stitching direction.

The stitch length may also be measured as stitches pr. cm.

According to embodiments of the invention, stitch width should beunderstood as the total width from top to top in the transversedirection of the stitching. For further explanation of stitch length (L)and stitch width (W) please refer to the description the associatedfigures.

If any damage is done to the membrane during stitching to the insole,such damage may be compensated/made waterproof by the adhesive appliedduring the process of attaching a sole to the upper.

Stitching Techniques

In an embodiment of the invention the stitches of the stitching are madeas two thread stitches.

In an embodiment of the invention, the stitches of the stitching aremade as single thread stitches.

In an embodiment of the invention, the stitching only uses one thread.

According to embodiments of the invention, the strobel sewing techniquemay only use an upper thread.

Upper thread and top thread may be used interchangeable according toembodiments of the invention. Lower thread and bottom thread may be usedinterchangeable according to embodiments of the invention.

According to embodiments of the invention, the stitches of the stitchingmay also be made as sewing techniques such as e.g. zig-zag, tacking,topstitching, edgestitching, staystitching and/or understitching.

In an embodiment of the invention, the stitches of the stitching aremade on a strobel sewing machine.

In an embodiment of the invention, the strobel sewing machine is anoverlocking or overseaming strobel stitcher.

Needle/Thread

In embodiments of the invention, the needle size may be in a sizebetween 90 to 120. For stitching the membrane to the insole, it may bepreferred to use a needle in a smaller size, such as e.g. 90.

The function of the needle is to produce holes in the material and tocarry the needle thread through the material and there form a loop andthen pass the needle thread through the loop.

Needles for sewing machines typical comprises and upper part, a butt andshank and a lower part comprising the shaft, front groove, eye andpoint. The point penetrates the material and may have a variety of formsdepending on the application or material types to be sewn in. The pointmay have a set/spear point, a ball point or a wedge point.

According to embodiments of the invention, the thread (TH) for stitchingmay comprise cotton and/or polyester and the size of the thread may e.g.be a thread size between 10/3 wt to 120/3 wt, wherein a 60/3 wt threadmay be preferred.

The needle and the thread should optimally fit each other by size. Ifthe needle is too small for the thread, the thread will not pass freelythrough the eye and can lead to costly thread breakages in theproduction. Further, a too thick needle may block the penetration of PUduring DIP or adhesive during cementing.

If the needle is too large for the thread there will be poor control ofthe loop formation which may cause slip stitches, create holes in thefabric which are too big for the stitches and may damage the fabricalong the stitch line.

According to embodiments of the invention, the holes of the sewing alsoprovide holes for the PU to penetrate during DIP or adhesive duringcementing.

According to embodiments of the invention, the thread may be thinnerthan the threads used for other types of stitches of footwear uppers.

ADHESIVE CHARACTERISTICS AND EXAMPLES

In an embodiment of the invention, the anchoring adhesive (AA) has amelting point of at least 50 degrees Celsius, such as at least 60degrees Celsius, such as at least 70 degrees Celsius, such as at least80 degrees Celsius, such as at least 90 degrees Celsius, such as atleast 100 degrees Celsius, such as at least 110 degrees Celsius, such asat least 120 degrees Celsius, such as at least 130 degrees Celsius, suchas at least 140 degrees Celsius.

In an embodiment of the invention, the anchoring adhesive (AA) has amelting point between 30-200 degrees Celsius, such as between 50-180degrees Celsius, such as between 70-160 degrees Celsius, such as between90-140 degrees Celsius, such as between 100-120 degrees Celsius.

In an embodiment of the invention, the drying time of the anchoringadhesive (AA) is maximum 5 hours, such as 4 hours, such as 3 hours, suchas 2 hours, such as 1 hour, such as 45 min, such as 30 min.

In an embodiment of the invention, the bonding time of the anchoringadhesive (AA) is less than 5 hours, such as 4 hours, such as 3 hours,such as 2 hours, such as 1 hour, such as 45 min, such as 30 min.

In an embodiment of the invention, the anchoring adhesive (AA) is anon-water-based adhesive.

In an embodiment of the invention, the anchoring adhesive (AA) is awater-based adhesive.

In an embodiment of the invention, the anchoring adhesive (AA) isheat-activated.

In an embodiment of the invention, the anchoring adhesive (AA) is in theform as a liquid, film, tape, beads and/or sheet.

In an embodiment of the invention, the anchoring adhesive (AA) is aliquid.

In an embodiment of the invention, the anchoring adhesive (AA) is afilm.

In an embodiment of the invention, the anchoring adhesive (AA) is atape.

In an embodiment of the invention, the anchoring adhesive (AA) is atwo-component adhesive.

In an embodiment of the invention, the anchoring adhesive (AA) is a coldglue.

In an embodiment of the invention, the anchoring adhesive (AA) is atleast one of following adhesives: epoxies, methyl methacrylates,silicone adhesives, urethanes or any combinations thereof.

In an embodiment of the invention, the anchoring adhesive (AA) is apolyurethane.

In an embodiment of the invention, the anchoring adhesive (AA) comprisea polyurethane pre-polymer with isocyanic groups.

In an embodiment of the invention, the anchoring adhesive (AA) comprisediphenylmethane-4,4′-diisocyanate.

In an embodiment of the invention, the anchoring adhesive (AA) comprisea one-component polyurethane.

In an embodiment of the invention, the anchoring adhesive (AA) is apolyurethane and wherein the application temperature of the adhesive isbetween 90-160 degrees Celsius, 90-150 degrees Celsius such as between100-140 degrees Celsius.

In an embodiment of the invention, the anchoring adhesive (AA) comprisea polyurethane pre-polymer with isocyanic groups and wherein theapplication temperature of the adhesive is between 90-160 degreesCelsius, 90-150 degrees Celsius such as between 100-140 degrees Celsius.

In an embodiment of the invention, the anchoring adhesive (AA) comprisediphenylmethane-4,4′-diisocyanate and wherein the applicationtemperature of the adhesive is between 90-160 degrees Celsius, 90-150degrees Celsius such as between 100-140 degrees Celsius.

In an embodiment of the invention, the anchoring adhesive (AA) comprisea one-component p olyurethane and wherein the application temperature ofthe adhesive is between 90-160 degrees Celsius, 90-150 degrees Celsiussuch as between 100-140 degrees Celsius.

According to embodiments of the invention, the anchoring adhesive may bepresent in a continuous layer or be present as a “perforated” ornon-continues adhesive layer facilitating both sufficient bonding butalso breathing or some kind of moisture transport through the layers.

The application of anchoring adhesive to the leather parts may be in theform of a prelamination.

According to embodiments of the invention, the adhesive may depend onthe type of material.

Adherence Process

In an embodiment of the invention, the membrane (MEM) is at leastpartially attached to the outer layer (OL) by an anchoring adhesive (AA)process.

In an embodiment of the invention, the anchoring adherence (AA) processcomprises application of heat.

In an embodiment of the invention, the anchoring adhesive (AA) processcomprises a period of application of heat and wherein the period ofapplication of heat is at least 5 sec, such as at least 7 sec, such asat least 9 sec., such as at least 13 sec.

In an embodiment of the invention, the anchoring adhesive (AA) processcomprises a period of application of heat and wherein the period ofapplication of heat is between 5 sec-15 sec, such as between 7 sec-13sec, such as between 7 sec-10 sec.

In an embodiment of the invention, the anchoring adherence (AA) processcomprises application of heat and wherein the application of heat isbetween 90-160 degrees Celsius, 90-150 degrees Celsius such as between100-140 degrees Celsius.

In an embodiment of the invention, the anchoring adherence (AA) processcomprises application of heat and wherein the application of heat is atleast 90 degrees Celsius, such as at least 110 degrees Celsius, such asat least 130 degrees Celsius.

In an embodiment of the invention, the anchoring adherence (AA) processcomprises application of pressure.

In an embodiment of the invention, the anchoring adherence (AA) processincludes application of pressure at least during or subsequent toreactivation of the anchoring adhesive and pressing the outer layertogether with the membrane, and wherein the pressure is at least 2 bar,such as at least 3 bar, such as at least 4 bar.

A footwear according to any of the preceding claims, wherein theanchoring adherence (AA) process comprises application of pressure andwherein the pressure is between 2 bar-7 bar, such as between 3 bar-5bar.

In an embodiment of the invention, the anchoring adherence processcomprises application of heat and pressure.

In an embodiment of the invention, the anchoring adherence processcomprises application of heat and pressure, wherein the application ofheat is between 90-160 degrees Celsius and application of pressure isbetween 2 bar-7 bar.

Anchoring Pattern

In an embodiment of the invention, the membrane (MEM) is furtherattached to the lower end of the outer layer (LOL) along at least a partof the circumference of the lower end of the outer layer by means of ananchoring adhesive (AA).

In an embodiment of the invention, the membrane (MEM) is furtherattached to the lower end of the outer layer (LOL) along the completepart of the circumference of the lower end of the outer layer (LOL) bymeans of a continues an anchoring adhesive (AA).

Outer Layer

In an embodiment of the invention, the outer layer (OL) is formed by aleather.

In an embodiment of the invention, the outer layer (OL) is formed by awoven or non-woven textile.

In one or more embodiments, the outer layer may be an outermost layer ofthe upper.

The outer layer is the material facing the outer environment and may bean aesthetic pleasing material such as e.g. leather material, knitted,polymer, canvas or other types of material applied in footwearmanufacturing. The outer material gives the footwear a specific look orhave a specific function such as e.g. color, elasticity, stiffness,weight, or other characteristics. These materials are often liquidpermeable materials.

The outer layer may be a textile layer, a leather layer, a nubuck layer,a knitted layer, a polymer and/or canvas or any type of layer that maybe used as the outermost layer of a footwear upper, where the otherlayer may provide the outer appearance of the footwear. The outer layermay be outermost layer of the outer layer, however, the outer layer mayalso comprise other layers or treatments covering the other layer as anextra outer layer for e.g. strengthening, protection or aestheticalappearance.

The outer layer is generally designating a layer separated from a footof a wearer by the breathable waterproof membrane the foot of a wearerof the footwear. The outer layer is thus designated relative to thewaterproof breathable membrane whereas and further layers or structuresmay thus be added onto the outside of the outer layer of the footwearwithout compromising the understanding of what an outer layer is definedas.

The outer layer may this e.g. further comprise embossing, attachmentsand or logos on the side of the outer layer pointing away from thewaterproof breathable membrane.

Likewise, the outer layer may further comprise a coating, impregnationor even further layers on top to the outer layer facing away from thewaterproof breathable membrane.

Membrane

In one or more embodiments, the membrane may be a waterproof and vaporpermeable functional layer. A waterproof and vapor permeable functionallayer is well known within the art, such as commercially availableGORE-TEX® laminate from W.L. Gore & Associates, Sympatex, Cosmo, Outdry,Covestro, Respilon, Schoeller or Wilhelm.

In an embodiment of the invention, the membrane (MEM) is at least 0.01mm, such as at least 0.1 mm, such as between 0.3 mm to 5 mm, such asbetween 0.5 mm to 4 mm, and such as between 1 mm to 3 mm.

In an embodiment of the invention, the membrane (MEM) is between 0.01 mmand 5 mm and the insole (IS) is between 0.1 mm to 10 mm.

According to embodiments of the invention, the membrane may compriseseveral layers.

Other layers to be included or attached to the membrane includes fabricon one or both sides of the membrane layer. Such layers may e.g. beincluded for strength purposes, layers or treatment on the membrane forreducing the surface tensions, layers for providing color and/or e.g. alining. In the latter case a footwear lining may thus form a part ofwhat is referred to in the description as membrane.

Footwear Upper

According to embodiments of the invention, the footwear upper may be anupper suitable for any footwear types and may be for example a shoe, aboot, a golf shoe, an athletic shoe.

According to embodiments of the invention, the footwear upper maycomprise at least two footwear parts and may be for example

a toe cap and a vamp,a vamp and a tongue,a vamp and a quarter,a quarter and an outer counter,a facing and a quarter.

Insole and Sole

In an embodiment of the invention, the membrane (MEM) of the upper (U)is attached to the insole (IS) by a stitching (STI).

In an embodiment of the invention, the stitching (STI) attaches thelower end of the membrane (LMEM) to the insole (IS) by stitches withoutperforating the lower end of the outer layer (LOL).

In an embodiment of the invention, the stitching is sealed by awaterproof sealing forming at least a part of a waterproof bottomsealing the insole of the footwear.

In an embodiment of the invention, the attachment of the insole to thelower end of the membrane is waterproof and forming at least a part of awaterproof bottom sealing (WBS) sealing at least the insole (IS) and thelower part of the upper (U) of the footwear.

In an embodiment of the invention, the attachment of the insole to thelower end of the membrane is performed by means of stitching (STI),wherein the stitching (STI) is sealed by a waterproof sealing forming atleast a part of a waterproof bottom sealing (WBS) sealing at least theinsole (IS) and the lower part of the upper (U) of the footwear,

It is noted in connection with the waterproof bottom sealing that suchsealing is reliable over the prior art as the waterproof sealing isapplied directly onto the lower end of the membrane rather than e.g.applying it onto the membrane via e.g. a net/mesh. Such application ofan adhesive through other mechanical structures to make the desiredsealing may be difficult to perform as it is difficult to predict orcheck whether the adhesive in fact has passed the mesh and forms auniform sealing at the other side of the mesh. In other words, theprocess of applying the adhesive to the membrane through a mesh is notvery suitable for state of the art sealing processes.

In an embodiment of the invention, the thickness of the insole is atleast 0.1 mm, such as at least 0.5 mm, such as at least 1 mm, such asbetween 0.1 mm to 10 mm, such as between 0.5 mm to 9 mm, such as between1 mm to 8 mm, such as between 2 mm to 7 mm, such as between 3 mm to 6mm.

In an embodiment of the invention, the insole is a strobel sole.

In an embodiment of the invention, the insole comprises a non-wovenmaterial.

In an embodiment of the invention, the insole comprises a wovenmaterial.

In an embodiment of the invention, the insole material comprises foam.

DIP

In an embodiment of the invention, the sole is injection molded to theupper.

For a direct injection production (DIP) process, a shoe upper includingan attached insole is placed on a last, wherein the last with the shoeupper is placed into a mold and wherein subsequently a liquid solematerial such as for example liquid polyurethane (PU) is injected intothe mold to effect a strong attachment of the upper to the sole.

Furthermore, a durable and reliable anchoring makes it attractive tomanufacture a footwear by a direct injection process as the foaming ofthe material used for molding of the outsole will not expand into thespace between the membrane and the outer layer at the lower end of theupper.

According to embodiments of the invention, the sole may be a multicomponent sole and may have polymeric materials that may have differentdensity, elasticity, stiffness, wear resistance, or other properties, inorder to provide the desired type of footwear.

In an embodiment of the invention, the material of the sole is a polymermaterial.

In an embodiment of the invention, the material of the sole is a polymermaterial, optionally a polyurethane (PU), optionally a thermoplasticpolyurethane (TPU), or a multi component sole comprising different partsof polymeric materials having different properties.

Cemented Footwear

In an embodiment of the invention, the upper (U) is cemented to the sole(S).

In an embodiment of the invention, the upper (U) is cemented to the sole(S) by at least an adhesive.

According to embodiments of the invention, the sole may be attached tothe upper by use of adhesives, wherein the adhesives may be a hot meltadhesive, a two-component adhesive, or similar.

Other In an embodiment of the invention, the lower part of thewaterproof membrane has a lower circumference area than the area of theouter material in the horizontal plane.

In an embodiment of the invention, the lower end of the outer layer(LOL) is adhered only partly around the circumference to the lower endof the membrane (LMEM).

In an embodiment of the invention, the lower end of the outer layer(LOL) is adhered around substantially the total circumference to thelower end of the membrane (LMEM).

The lower end of the membrane (LMEM) may not be the lowest end of themembrane as the membrane according to an embodiment of the invention mayextend longer at the lower end than the lower end of the outer layer.

In an embodiment of the invention, the footwear upper comprises alining.

The footwear upper may besides the waterproof membrane comprise an innerlining the comes in contact with the entire foot. The advantage of thelining is to cover the inside seams of the shoe, strengthen the footwearand lengthen the shoe's lifespan. The lining may be of differentmaterials such as e.g. leather, fabric or a synthetic lining.

Stitch-Free Distance (STFD)

In an embodiment of the invention, the stitches of the stitching (STI)perforating and engaging with the lower end of the membrane (MEM) aremade with a distance to the lower end of the outer layer (LOL) which isgreater than a stitch-free distance (STFD) which is at least 1 mm, suchas at least 2 mm.

In the present context a stitch-free-distance, when applied inconnection with the lower end of the membrane and the lower end of theouter layer, refers to the distance from where the outer layer does notoverlap the membrane layer. In other words, this distance will be foundin the final product as the distance from the stitching between theinsole and the membrane to where the outer layer further comprises theouter layer. It should be noted that this membrane part will be somewhathidden at the lower end of the upper as this part of the membrane needsto be reinforced in terms of strength as the outer layer in this part ofthe footwear construction is not protecting or reinforcing the membranedirectly. In practice the membrane will be covered by the sole byextending the membrane below the part of the upper of the final footwearto contain a user's foot and anchoring it to the sole below.Alternatively, or in combination therewith, the membrane may beprotected from the side of the sole to which the upper is anchored. Inboth instances, the membrane will be hidden and protected by the solebelow the lower part of the upper and/or by parts of the sole extendingfrom below and partially covering the lowest part of the upper from theside.

The stitch-free-distance in the present context is given as a maximum,meaning that the distance at no given place should be shorter unlessspecific supplementing provisions are applied so as to sealing thepotentially compromised outer layer.

In an embodiment of the invention, the stitch-free distance (STFD isbetween 1 mm and 20 mm, such as 1 mm and 10 mm, such as between 1 mm and6 mm.

Stitch-Free Distance (STFD and Mark-Free Distance

In an embodiment of the invention, the stitches of the stitching (STI)perforating and engaging with the lower end of the membrane (MEM) aremade with a stitch-free-distance to the lower end of the outer layer(LOL) being at least 1 mm, such as at least 2 mm and wherein marksprovided by a feeding mechanism of a sewing machine during stitching tothe insole (IS) has a lateral distance (MFD) which is less than 10 mm,such as less than 6 mm, such as less than 3 mm.

In the present context, a feeding mechanism may also be referred to asfeed dogs or functionally equivalent parts of a sewing machine, which isproviding a feeding movement of the membrane and insole material duringthe stitching of the insole to the membrane. Depending on the appliedmembrane, such feeding may leave marks or even damage the membranesability to be waterproof, and such damage must be kept in check with theapplied waterproof sealing thereby extending the sealing area to notonly the stitching area but also to the part of membrane which isaffected by the feeding mechanism of the sewing machine during stitchingof the membrane to the insole.

It should be noted that the so-called lateral distance from the feedmarks in principle may be negative as it is noted that such marks, whenmade from the side of the membrane facing outwardly towards in outerlayer will be made in the outer layer, if the feeding mechanism isaccidently or on purpose engaging the outer layer. The lateral distancementioned in this context may also be referred to in the description asa mark-free-distance.

This feature of allowing a setting of marks relatively close to wherethe outer layer starts (as seen from the lower end of the upper), makesit possible to provide a safe, durable and very cost-effectivewaterproof and breathable footwear.

In an embodiment of the invention, the stitches of the stitching (STI)perforating and engaging with the lower end of the membrane (MEM) aremade with a stitch-free-distance to the lower end of the outer layer(LOL) being at least 1 mm, such as at least 2 mm and wherein marksprovided by a feeding mechanism of a sewing machine during stitching tothe insole (IS) has a lateral distance (MFD) which is less than 10 mm,such as less than 6 mm, such as less than 3 mm and wherein the marks MAare provided on the side of the upper to which a sole has been attachedor is to be attached.

Cementing/Adhering the Outer Layer LOL

In an embodiment of the invention, the at least 3 mm of the lower end ofthe outer layer is cemented or adhered to the sole (S).

In an embodiment of the invention, the lower end of the outer layer iscemented or adhered to the sole (S), such as 5 to 12 mm of the lower endof the outer layer is cemented or adhered to the sole (S).

In an embodiment of the invention, the at least 4 mm of the lower end ofthe outer layer is roughed prior to cementing to the sole (S) andwherein the outer layer is formed by leather.

In an embodiment of the invention, the at least 4 mm of the lower end ofthe outer layer is pre-adhered with the first adhesive (FAD) prior tocementing the upper (U) to the sole (S).

Attachment of Membrane to the Outer Layer

In an embodiment of the invention, the breathable membrane (MEM) isattached to the outer layer (OL) at least at the upper or lower end(LEND) of the footwear.

In an advantageous embodiment, the top end of the membrane is attachedin a durable way, e.g. by stitching or adhesion to the outer layer whileat the same being attached at the lower end of the upper to the outerlayer around discreet points of the lower circumference of the membrane,discrete areas or continuously around the whole circumference. Theattachment at the lower end of the membrane to the outer layer should bestitch-free so as to avoid penetration of the membrane which isdifficult to seal.

In an embodiment of the invention, the breathable membrane (MEM) isattached to the outer layer (OL) at the lower end of the upper (U).

In an embodiment of the invention, the breathable membrane (MEM) isattached to the outer layer (OL) at the lower end of the upper (U) by ananchoring adhesive (AA).

In an embodiment of the invention, the breathable membrane (MEM) is alsoattached to the outer layer (OL) at the lower end of the upper (U) by anadhesive (LAD) adhesion around the circumference of the lower end of theouter layer (OL).

Reinforcing Member (RM)-Support Band

In an embodiment of the invention, the lower end of the membrane is atleast partly provided with a reinforcing member (RM) and wherein thestitching (STI) attaching the insole (IS) to the membrane (MEM) is atleast partly encapsulating the reinforcing member (RM).

According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, a reinforcingmember is attached at the lower end of the membrane, partly or aroundthe complete circumference of the lower end of the membrane. Thisreinforcing band may be stitched or adhered to the membrane. It shouldbe noted that the member may be a band or a string as long as it canserve as a support to the stiches of the stitching in the membrane whenthe upper is mounted on a last. By “encapsulating” the reinforcementmember by the stitching, the reinforcement band will ensure that theperforations related to the stitches in the membrane are not breaking orelongated to a degree is unacceptable.

The reinforcement member, e.g. a band, may be provided at both theinside and/or the outside of the membrane, i.e. on the side facingtowards the inside of the footwear and to the outside of the membranefacing away from inside of the footwear.

In an embodiment of the invention, the membrane (MEM) is attached to theouter layer (OL) by means of said anchoring adhesive (AA) at anattachment surface area, wherein the attachment surface is less than 20%of the inner area of the outer layer, such as less than 10% of the outerlayer.

In an embodiment of the invention, the upper (U) comprises an upper topend (UTEND), an upper intermediate area (UINA) and an upper lower end(ULEND), wherein the upper (U) is at least partly provided by a membrane(MEM) and an outer layer (OL) and

wherein the membrane (MEM) is attached to the upper top end (UTEND) andthe upper lower end (ULEND).

In an embodiment of the invention, the upper (U) is at least partlyprovided by a membrane (MEM) and an outer layer (OL),

wherein the outer layer comprises an outer layer top end (TOL), an outerlayer intermediate layer end (OIL) and an outer layer lower end (LOL)andwherein the membrane (MEM) is attached to the outer layer lower end(LOL) and the outer layer top end (TOL).

In an embodiment of the invention, the membrane (MEM) to the outer layerlower end (LOL) and the outer layer top end (TOL) constitute less than50% of the total upper area.

Attachment of the membrane to no more than 50%, such as less than 40%,such as less than 30% of the total outer layer area should be understoodas the membrane is attached to the top end of the outer layer and thelower end of the outer layer and there is no attachment of the membranein the intermediate area between the top end of the upper and the lowerend of the upper.

In an embodiment of the invention, there is no attachment means in theupper intermediate area (UINA).

In an embodiment of the invention, the upper intermediate area (UINA) isa non-attachment area.

In an embodiment of the invention, the upper intermediate area (UINA) isa non-attachment area and wherein the non-attachment area is contiguous.

An advantage of having no attachment in the intermediate area of theouter layer may be a higher breathability of the upper compared to e.g.a laminate where the upper and membrane is fully attached by e.g. glue,film or similar.

A further advantage of having no attachment means in the upperintermediate area is that the adhesive areas are subsequently covered bye.g. the sole and therefore does not need to provide breathability ofthe upper. This means, highly advantageously, that any adhesive may beused e.g. more robust adhesives can be used during manufacturing of thefootwear without compromising breathability of the upper.

In an embodiment of the invention, the membrane (MEM) is attached to theupper outer layer lower end (LOL) by means of an anchoring adhesive(AA).

In an embodiment of the invention, the membrane (MEM) is attached to theupper outer layer lower end (LOL) by means of an anchoring adhesive (AA)and the membrane (MEM) is attached to the upper top end (TOL) by meansof an attachment arrangement (ATTA).

In an embodiment of the invention, the membrane (MEM) is attached to theupper outer layer lower end (LOL) by means of an anchoring adhesive (AA)and the membrane (MEM) is attached to the upper top end (TOL) by meansof adhesive and/or stitching.

In an embodiment of the invention, the membrane (MEM) is attached to theupper outer layer lower end (LOL) by means of an anchoring adhesive (AA)and the membrane (MEM) is attached to the upper top end (TOL) by meansof stitching.

In an embodiment of the invention, the attached outer layer (OL) andmembrane

(MEM) is a non-laminate.

In an embodiment of the invention, the membrane (MEM) is including atleast one functional layer facilitating both water proof-ness andbreathability and wherein the membrane has a protective layer facingtowards the outer layer and a lining facing towards the interior of thefootwear.

In an embodiment of the invention, the membrane (MEM) is including atleast one functional layer facilitating both water proof-ness andbreathability and wherein the membrane has a protective layer facingtowards the outer layer and a lining facing towards the interior of thefootwear and wherein the sealing of the membrane between the sole (S)and the lower end of the membrane (LMEM) is made between the protectivelayer of the membrane and the sole.

Sealing in the present context may also be referred to as suppressingwater bridges as understood within the art of footwear.

In an embodiment of the invention, the height of the anchoring adhesiveis at least 4 mm.

In an embodiment of the invention, the height of the anchoring adhesiveis between 4 to 20 mm, such as between 5 to 15 mm, such as between 5 to10 mm.

The lower anchoring adhesive should preferably have the aforementionedheight and be unbroken along the complete anchoring adhesivecircumference, including the anchoring optionally formed by means ofadhesive onto the toe cap and/or the heel cap.

In the present context it should be noted that it is desired keeping theheight of the anchoring adhesive as low as possible to ease the strobelsewing and the thereby facilitating a reliable sealing with few stichchallenges and folding of the membrane along the circumference of theinsole, in particular in the toe and heel end.

Moreover, the invention relates to a method of manufacturing a footwearcomprising an upper (U) and a sole (S), wherein the upper comprising amembrane (MEM) and at least one outer layer (OL), wherein the membraneis a waterproof breathable membrane (MEM), wherein anchoring adhesive(AA) is applied to the lower end of the membrane (MEM) and/or the lowerend of the outer layer to attach the membrane (MEM) and the outer layer(OL).

In an embodiment of the invention, the method comprising the steps ofattaching the lower end of the membrane (LMEM) to an insole (IS),lasting the provided upper (U) on a last, subjecting the upper (U) topost treatment while the upper is lasted to obtain a desired 3D shape ofthe upper without reactivating the anchoring adhesive (AA), and applyingan outsole (OS) to the upper (U) while the upper is lasted.

In the present context, “applying an outsole to the upper” designatesthat a premanufactured outsole is cemented to the upper when the upperis on the last or alternatively that an outsole is molded to the upperby a direct injection method.

In an embodiment of the invention, the lower end of the membrane (LMEM)is longer than the lower end of the outer layer (LOL).

In an embodiment of the invention, the step of attaching the lower endof the membrane (LMEM) to an insole (IS) is performed by stitching(STI).

In an embodiment of the invention, the step of attaching the lower endof the membrane (LMEM) to an insole (IS) is performed by stitching (STI)and wherein the stitching (STI) attaches the lower end of the membrane(LMEM) to the insole (IS) by stitches without perforating the lower endof the outer layer (LOL).

In an embodiment of the invention, the post treatment includingapplication of heat, steam and/or radiation to obtain the desired shapeof the upper.

Sole and outsole may be used interchangeably.

THE FIGURES

The invention will now be described with reference to the drawing where

FIG. 1 illustrates a cross-section of an embodiment concept within thescope of the invention,

FIG. 2 illustrates a cross-section of a further embodiment conceptwithin the scope of the invention,

FIG. 3 illustrates a cross-section of an upper of FIG. 1 at a last priorto attachment to a sole,

FIG. 4 illustrates a cross-section of an upper of FIG. 1 after it hasbeen DIP'ed to a sole,

FIG. 5 illustrates a cross-section of an upper of FIG. 1 after it hasbeen cemented to a sole,

FIG. 6 illustrates a cross-section in the longitudinal direction of aDIP'ed footwear according to FIG. 1 or FIG. 4 ,

FIG. 7 illustrates a cross-section in the longitudinal direction of acemented footwear according to FIG. 1 or FIG. 5 ,

FIG. 8 a-d illustrate different ways of anchoring the membrane to theouter layer within the scope of embodiments of the invention,

FIG. 9 shows a cross section in a longitudinal direction of anembodiment of the invention,

FIG. 10 illustrates a 3D positioning of the heel cap HC and the toe capTC FIG. 11 a to 11 d show simple principles of an exemplary design of atoe cap and a heel cap within the scope of the invention,

FIG. 12 illustrates a cross section of a toe end of a footwear,

FIG. 13 a and FIG. 13 b illustrate a part of the manufacturing processof an upper,

FIG. 14 a and FIG. 14 b illustrates a 3D view of an upper,

FIG. 15 to FIG. 17 illustrate different definitions to applied for thecharacterization of features of embodiments of the invention,

FIG. 18 a-d illustrates principles of an attachment of an insole IS withan upper U and a sole S of a cemented footwear,

FIG. 19 a and FIG. 19 b illustrate a further embodiment within the scopeof the invention,

FIG. 20 illustrates a different way of anchoring the membrane to theouter layer within the scope of embodiments of the invention without theapplication of a toe cap or a heel cap adhering member,

FIG. 21 illustrates the principles of a waterproof bottom sealingaccording to an embodiment of the invention,

FIG. 22 illustrates the principles of controlling the stitch-freedistance and the mark-free distance according to an embodiment of theinvention,

FIG. 23 illustrates a possible sectional view of an article of footwearand illustrating the upper in more details,

FIG. 24 illustrates a possible cross-section in the longitudinaldirection of the footwear and illustrating attaching the membrane,

FIG. 25 illustrates a possible sectional view of a footwear within thescope of the invention and showing examples of layers of the upper,

FIGS. 26 a and 26 b illustrate embodiments of the invention and showsexamples of locations of the attachment of the membrane, and

FIG. 27 illustrates a further embodiment within the scope of theinvention.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION

FIG. 1 shows a sectional view of an article of footwear FW, such as ashoe, comprising an upper U and sole S, where the upper U defines a footinsertion volume FIV. The upper U comprises an outer layer OL and awaterproof breathable membrane MEM, where the outer layer OL is theouter layer of the upper U, and the membrane MEM is positioned betweenthe outer layer OL and the foot insertion volume FIV. The upper mayfurther comprise an inner lining (not shown) which may be a separatelayer, e.g. of leather or textile, which is breathable. The lining mayalso be added as a part of the membrane, e.g. a membrane comprising oneor more textiles laminated to the membrane. The membrane may alsoinclude a further layer of fabric facing towards the outer layer. Thislayer may in the present context serve as a reinforcing layer or a layerfacilitating subsequent adhesion to other footwear layers or components.

The outer layer OL comprises two surfaces; a surface OSF that faces thefoot insertion volume FIV of the upper U, and a surface OSO that isfacing outwards and in the opposite direction of a surface B SF thatfaces the foot insertion volume FIV.

The membrane MEM comprises two surfaces; a surface BSF that faces thefoot insertion volume FIV of the upper U, and a surface BSO that isfacing the outer layer surface OSF.

The upper U may comprise more than two layers, where a third, fourth orsubsequent layers may be provided. The membrane MEM however should bepositioned between the foot insertion volume FIV and the outermost layerof the upper, in order to prevent liquids to enter the foot insertionvolume. Further layers and/or attachments may of course be appliedwithin the scope of the invention.

The upper U has an upper part UP and a lower part LP, where the lowerpart LP abuts the upper facing surface UFS of the sole S. The sole S hasa sole upper edge SUE. The sole may comprise several parts and layers(not shown).

The sole S further has a ground contacting surface GCS, which isintended to come into contact with the ground when the article offootwear FW is worn by a user. In accordance with one or moreembodiments the sole S may comprise a midsole, where the groundcontacting surface GCS may be an outsole facing surface, in case thereis an outsole applied between the midsole and the ground, or any otherform for a sole part located between the ground and the midsole. Thus,the term ground contacting surface may be replaced by the term groundfacing surface.

The outer layer OL has a lower end LOL that extends past the sole upperedge SUE of the upper surface and extends in a, preferably, downwarddirection towards the bottom BUA of the upper and both the lower end ofthe membrane LMEM and the lower end of the outer layer LOL forms a partof an area where the upper U and the sole S are joined. The lower end ofthe membrane is furthermore connected to an insole IS around thecircumference of the insole IS. The insole may optionally be connectedby means of stitching and thus forming part of the upper. This may alsobe referred to as a strobel stitching. It should be noted, unlessotherwise specified, that the stitching is optional and other means ofconnecting the insole to the upper may be applied within the scope ofthe invention, e.g. by means of adhesion.

As may be seen in FIG. 1 the lower end of the outer layer LOL may extenda shorter distance of the upper U, than the lower end LMEM of themembrane MEM.

FIG. 1 further illustrates a top edge TE of the footwear and should beunderstood as the upper edge of the footwear. The top edge may belocated on top of a collar.

The illustrated footwear may in principle be manufactured as both acemented footwear, i.e. where the sole S is cemented to apre-manufactured upper U and a footwear manufactured bydirect-injection, i.e. where the sole is molded onto the upper by adirection injection process. These two processes are known in relationto conventional footwear, but is should be noted that the method needsspecific and unique modifications to be applied in the context of thepresent invention.

Other methods which may be applied within the scope of embodiments ofthe invention may include vulcanization of rubber onto the upper, castedsole or e.g. 3D printing directly onto the lower end of the upper.

In connection with the gathering of the upper with a sole, the abovemanufacturing methods may preferably include a roughing step if theouter layer is a top grain leather layer. At least a part of the lowerend of the outer layer LOL should thus be roughed in order to e.g.attach to the cement or the DIP material to be used.

In an area where the outer layer OL and the membrane MEM overlap, theymay be attached by an anchoring adhesive AA. The anchoring adhesive AAis applied for the purpose of securing the membrane to the outer layerOL around the lower end of the membrane thereby ensuring that themembrane do not fold inside the shoe. The adhesive also serves as ameans for ensuring that adhesive, when sole S is attached by cementingdoes not progress to much between the membrane MEM and the outer layerOL. If the shoe is made by means of direct injection, the sole S wouldbe attached to the upper by means of a direct-injection-process. In sucha case, the anchoring adhesive should furthermore serve, preferably as acontinuous or as a part of a continuous anchoring around the completecircumference of the lower end of the upper, thereby ensuring that thematerial applied for direct injection is not progressing or foaming inbetween the membrane and the outer layer in a undesired andunpredictable way.

A continuous anchoring around the complete circumference of the lowerend of the outer layer to the membrane, should be understood as ananchoring solely anchoring at the lower end of the upper to the membranein e.g. a distance of up to 2 cm from the sole portion. In the areaabove the anchoring site of the lower end of the outer layer and themembrane, from the sole site, the membrane is un-attached to the outerlayer.

Such un-attached area may preferably continue till an attachment in thetop of the footwear e.g. in the collar region of the footwear, where themembrane and the outer layer may be attached by an adhesive and/orstitching. The un-attached area between the anchoring adhesive at thelower end of the outer layer and top or collar area of the footwearshould be understood as an area where the main part of the membrane isnot attached to the outer layer. It should here be understood that whenthe main part of the membrane is not attached, between the attachmentsites of the anchoring adhesive in the sole portion and the adherence inthe top-collar region, the membrane is generally loose or un-attached.There may, off course, be designs or various constructions of footwearwhere adhesives or stitches may be applied in certain parts of thisarea, where the membrane is un-attached, however this should not beunderstood as an attachment of the total area such as e.g. a laminate.

The above illustrated embodiment of the invention may serve as areference for different aspects of the present invention below. Itshould nevertheless be noted that the aim would overall to achieve afootwear which is waterproof above the lower end of the upper, i.e. thelower end of the membrane LMEM and the lower end of the outer layer LOL.How high such waterproofness is required may depend on the footweardesign as long as it goes above the lower end of the outer layer. Theouter layer OL and the membrane should also be breathable.

The waterproofness is fully required from above the lower end of themembrane and included the lower part of the upper, including the sole S.It should be noted that the waterproofness at the lower end of thefootwear FW is primarily designed to keep the inside of the footwearwaterproof In other words. The combination of the outer layer and themembrane must ensure waterproofness with respect to water passing fromthere into the foot insertion volume FIV. It may be a little differentwith respect to the lower part LP of the upper in combination with thesole S, as the breathability through the sole is not and absoluterequirement, but it is necessary that the water does not pass into thefoot insertion volume FIV. This means that there is degree of freedom interms of design when establishing the sole structure. A part of thesole, e.g. the lower part may thus be non-waterproof as long as the apart of the sole S or the insole IS comprise a waterproof barrier whichmay prevent water from passing from the outside of the footwear FW intothe foot insertion volume FIV through the sole S of through the criticaltransition between the lower end of the membrane LMEM and the insole ISand/or the sole S.

A part of such waterproof barrier may thus in another embodiment byimplemented by the application of a waterproof sole which is connectedin a waterproof way the membrane of the upper.

It should thus be noted that, according to an embodiment of theinvention, that both the upper U and the S/insole IS are applied asbreathable and waterproof, whereas another attractive embodiment of theinvention is waterproof and breathable with respect to the upper (atleast the lower part of the upper) and only waterproof with respect tothe sole and/or the insole.

Outer Layer

The outer layer may be a fabric/textile layer, a leather layer, a nubucklayer, a knitted layer, polymer, canvas, or any type of layer that maybe used as the outermost layer of a footwear upper, where the otherlayer may provide the outer appearance of the footwear.

The outer layer may be outermost layer of the outer layer, however, theouter layer may also comprise other layers or treatments covering theother layer as an extra outer layer for e.g. strengthening, color,elasticity, stiffness, weight, protection or aesthetical appearance.

Examples Leather

Examples of leather types that may be used within the scope of inventionmay be types such as full grain or top grain leather, embossed grainleather, suede and nubuck.

In principle, the leather can derive from any source, including cowhide, horse hide, goat skin, sheep skin, kangaroo hide, reptiles, fishand the like. Even so, preferably the leather is a mammal or marsupialleather (i.e. derives from a hide from a mammal such as a cow or horse,or a marsupial such as a kangaroo). Mammal leathers are most often used.

In terms of terminology, top grain surface is the upper portion or outercovering of the animal whereas split is the under layer which is removedby splitting operation in the leather making/tanning process.

Full grain refers to top grain leather where no sanding of the surfacetakes place. Nubuck leathers have the surface layer removed or modifiedtypically by a buffing process. Although the leather still has thepronounced network of natural fibers and corium structure giving theleather strength, the very top grain surface is effectively removed. Thebuffing process used to form nubuck leathers leaves protein fibers thatproduce a velvet-like feel. Artificially embossing nubuck leather cancreate a surface texture, but often the embossing step damages theprotein fibers and undermines the velvet-like feel. Split leather iscreated from the fibrous part of the hide left once the top-grain hasbeen separated from the hide, e.g. to be used as full grain or top grainleather. Split grain leather may have reduced strength as compared tocomparable thicknesses of top grain leather, as the fibers tend to bemore aligned.

Membrane

The outer layer may be provided as a layer that may be liquid and/orvapor permeable, as any liquids that can pass the first layer, areprevented from entering the foot insertion volume by the breathablewaterproof membrane.

In one or more embodiments the membrane may be a waterproof and vaporpermeable functional layer. A waterproof and vapor permeable functionallayer is well known within the art, such as commercially availableGORE-TEX® laminate from W.L. Gore & Associates, Sympatex, Cosmo, Outdry,Covestro, Respilon, Schoeller or Wilhelm.

The membrane may comprise a single layer of material or may comprise twoor more layers of materials that are provided in a laminate, creating afunctional layer assembly. The membrane may be in the form of any layer,or a laminate of layers that create a waterproof and vapor permeablelayer for the upper. The vapor permeability of the layer may be adjustedin accordance with the specific use of the footwear, so that for someuses the vapor permeability may be greater than other uses, such as ahiking boot versus a casual shoe.

Other layers to be included or attached to the membrane includes fabricon one or both sides of the membrane layer. Such layers may e.g. beincluded for strength purposes, layers or treatment on the membrane forreducing the surface tensions, layers for providing color and/or e.g. alining. In the latter case a footwear lining may thus form a part ofwhat is referred to in the description as membrane.

In one or more embodiments of the invention, the membrane may be a kindof textile fabric compounded with polymer waterproof breathablematerials (PTFE) membrane) plus fabric. The membrane. The membrane mayalso be characterized as microporous membrane expanded Teflon(polytetrafluoroethylene) more formally known as ePTFE. that is e.g.provided in a thickness of about a 0.01 mm when not including thethickness of further laminated fabrics etc.

The waterproof membrane may comprise other layers and the thickness maydepend on the applied layers. In some or more embodiments of theinvention, the membrane may be e.g. 0.3 mm or 0.6 mm and in otherapplications such as e.g. a shoe suitable for cold weather, the membranemay e.g. be 2.5 mm or thicker.

The materials of the membrane layers may vary according to theapplication and relevance for use, wherein a thin and flexible membranemay be relevant for e.g. athletic shoes and membranes comprising e.g.wool or similar layers may be suitable for e.g. winter boots.

Breathable membrane, waterproof membrane, breathable waterproof membraneand membrane may be used interchangeably according to the invention.

Insole

The insole is the sole that binds the footwear upper to the rest of thefootwear and the material of the insole depends on the type of footwearconstruction and materials may be woven, non-woven, fabric, textile,canvas, leather, membrane, PU and/or foam material and may compriseadditional materials for comfort or functionality.

According to embodiments of the invention, the footwear manufacturingmay also be made without an insole. In this case only edging and a cord“criss-cross” the sole and the method may also be termed as “stringlasting”.

Insole and strobel sole may be used interchangeably according to theinvention.

The insole may be stitched to the lower end of the membrane by a strobelstitching technique that may are made by a strobel stitching machine.

An example of a strobel stitching machine may e.g. be a Strobel 141-23EV single thread overseaming machine. A needle type may e.g. be a needletype 134.

Adhesive

In embodiments of the invention, anchoring adhesive may be attached to asurface area of the membrane, and does not penetrate the membrane,either partly or fully. Thus, the water and vapor impermeability of themembrane is not affected by the adhesive. Thus, it may be important toensure that the adhesive does not increase the water or vaporpermeability of the membrane. The adhesive may provide a waterproof sealbetween the outer layer and the membrane of the upper.

In one or more embodiments, the anchoring adhesive may extend from thelower end of the outer layer and extending along the outer layer of thetotal circumference of the lower end direction.

The anchoring adhesive may be an adhesive layer but may also be a weldjoint, a melted joint, or any suitable adhesives that is capable ofattaching and/or fixing the outer layer to the membrane.

The anchoring adhesive may be part of the outer and/or the membrane,e.g. where the outer layer may be melted to the membrane, or vice versa,or the layers may be melted to each other. Alternatively, the anchoringadhesive may be a separate member, that is positioned between the twolayers, e.g. an adhesive layer.

In one or more embodiment, the anchoring adhesive may extendcontinuously along the entire lower end of the membrane. The anchoringadhesive may be a waterproof sealing/adhesive that means that theadhesion is capable of preventing water to penetrate the foot insertionvolume of the footwear.

The anchoring adhesive AA used for adhering the outer layer and membraneat the lower end as described according to the invention, may be anysuitable adhesives.

Examples of anchoring adhesives may e.g. be, non-water-based adhesives,water-based adhesives, heat-activated adhesives, two-componentadhesives, cold glue.

Examples of anchoring adhesives may e.g. be epoxies, methylmethacrylates, silicone adhesives, urethanes.

Examples of adhesives used according to the invention may be LociteAquace W-01, Helmitin 11019 Helmitin GPV and/or Helmitin 49631.

The anchoring adhesive may contain a polyurethane pre-polymer withisocyanic groups.

The anchoring adhesive may contain Diphenylmethane-4,4′-diisocyanate.

The anchoring adhesive may be a single-component polyurethane adhesive.

An example of an adhesive may be polyurethane pre-polymer based reactivehotmelt, such as e.g. a Purmelt.

The anchoring adhesive may be a hotmelt moisture cure product as aone-component polyurethane.

The part where the anchoring adhesive is applied may be pre-heated foran optimal bonding strength.

The anchoring adhesive AA used according to the invention may be invarious forms such as e.g. liquid, film, tape, beads and/or sheets thatmay adhere on one or both sides.

According to embodiments of the invention, the adhesive may be presentin a continuous layer or be present as a “perforated” or non-continuesadhesive layer facilitating both sufficient bonding but also breathingor some kind of moisture transport through the layers.

The application of adhesive to the leather parts may be in the form of aprelamination.

According to embodiments of the invention, hot melt adhesive or hot meltglue is used to attach the sole to the upper.

Assembly

After the strobel stitching, the upper is drawn over a last LA that maybe specially designed for the footwear. To make the upper flexible priorto lasting, the upper may be treated first with e.g. steaming. Thetreatment makes the upper easier to last and prevents the upper materialfrom tearing.

To ensure that the sole material binds efficiently to the upper, theupper may first be roughed or scratched at the lower end of the outerlayer.

FIG. 2 illustrates a variant of the footwear illustrated in FIG. 1within the scope of the invention. Unless otherwise specified, theillustrated embodiment is formed and designed according to the generaldescription of FIG. 1 . In this embodiment an upper U is formed by anouter layer OL and a membrane. The membrane MEM is anchored to the outerlayer OL at least by an adhesive anchoring AA. The membrane MEM has alower end LMEM and the outer layer OL has a lower end LOL. The lower endof the membrane LMEN and the lower end of the outer layer LOL areattached to an insole IS, e.g. by means of stitching STI. Otherattaching methods or arrangements may be applied within the scope of theinvention. The insole IS may be regarded as a part of the upper U. Theupper U is furthermore attached to a sole S. The present embodiment ofthe invention may preferably be manufactured by means of adirect-injection-process DIP. In other words the sole S may be moldedonto the upper and in this process sole material may progress throughpremade injection perforations IP in the lower end of the membrane LMEMand the lower end of the outer layer OL thereby attaching to the lowerend of the membrane LMEN and sealing perforations made in the lower endof the membrane LMEM during an attachment of the lower end of themembrane LMEM to the insole IS by stitching.

FIG. 3 shows an example of an article of footwear in an embodiment ofthe invention. The illustrated cross-section may e.g. be illustrated thespecific version of the invention of FIG. 1 , where the cross-sectionfocuses on the part of the upper of FIG. 1 where there is a transitionbetween the lower end of the membrane LMEN and the insole IS.

The illustrated upper U is shown as mounted on a last LA. The last LAhas thus been introduced into the foot insertion volume FIV. The lowerend of the outer layer LOL has prior to lasting been adhered to thelower end of the membrane LMEM with an anchoring adhesive AA.

The lower end LMEM of the membrane MEM is attached to an insole IS, andthe insole IS is attached to the lower end LMEM of the membrane MEMalong the entire periphery of the membrane MEM, in order to provide ananchor for the membrane MEM to the sole S which is attached to the upperU subsequently and while he upper is still lasted.

The anchoring adhesive AA ensures that the lower end LMEM does not movewhen the last LA were introduced into the foot insertion volume FIV, andit maintains the position of the membrane partly during use butprimarily during attachment to the sole S.

The attachment between the insole IS and the membrane MEM may e.g. bemade via an insole stitch STI, e.g. a strobel stitch. The adhesive AAensures that the position of the lower end LOL of the outer layer OL ismaintained in its position, when the last LA is introduced into the footinsertion volume FIV so that the lower end LOL does not movesignificantly (upwards, sidewards or downwards) when the last LAstretches out the outer layer OL, the membrane MEM and the insole IS.

Prior to an injection molding of the sole S to the upper U thepositioning of the lower end of the outer layer LOL ensures that atleast part of the lower end of the membrane LMEM facing away from thelast is exposed to its surroundings, as well as the lower surface LS ofthe insole IS and at least part of the surface of the outer layer OL.This means that when the upper U is positioned inside a mold (notshown), and the mold is closed towards the surface of the lower end ofthe outer layer LOL, the molded material can come into direct contactwith the surface of the lower end of the outer layer LOL, the lower endof the membrane EMEM, as well as the lower surface of the insole IS.

If the upper U is to be cemented to a sole S, the same principlesapplies principally as mentioned above. In that case, the cement to beapplied between the sole S and the upper U would be applied to the outerarea of the lower end of the outer layer LOL, the exposed and lower endof the membrane LMEM and the insole IS.

It should be noted that the stitching STI will be stretched when theupper us mounted on the last LA and the perforations associated with thestitches of the stitching STI in the lower end of the membrane will bestretched to a degree that it is almost certain that the desiredwaterproofness in the transition between the lower end of the membraneand the insole IS is lost, even if the insole is waterproof when theupper is initially mounted on the last. This lack of waterproofness willbe compensated during the subsequent attachment to the sole.

If applying a DIP process, the result of the application of the sole Sto the upper U is shown in FIG. 4 , where the last LA has been removed,and the sole S has been bonded to the upper U , to create a seal betweenthe surface of the lower end of the membrane LMEM and a waterproofmaterial forming the sole S. This seal prevents that liquids can passand ensures that the foot insertion volume FIV may be maintained dry,even if water may pass below the edge of the sole e.g. via the lower endof the outer layer LOL, as the water cannot pass the seal formed by thecombined transition of the lower end of the membrane LMEM and the soleS. The seal should preferably extend along the entire circumference ofthe lower end of the membrane LMEM, ensuring that liquids cannot passinto the foot insertion volume FIV. It is noted that even if thestitches of the stitching STI has been expanded during lasting,waterproofness is obtained as long as a reliable attachment between theDIP'ed sole S and the lower end of the membrane LMEM has been providedduring molding.

FIG. 5 illustrates, again with reference to FIG. 1 a cross-section ofthe upper U, in a version were the upper U is cemented to the sole S.

Also, here a sealing between the lower end of the membrane LMEM and thesole S may be obtained insofar an adhesive cement AC is applied properlyto the lower end of the outer layer LOL, the lower end of the membraneLMEM and the sole S. In the present context it is important that thecement is waterproof

The last has now been removed, and the sole S has been bonded to theupper U by a layer of adhesive cement AC, to create a seal between thesurface of the lower end of the membrane LMEM and a waterproof materialforming the sole S. This seal prevents that liquids can pass and ensuresthat the foot insertion volume FIV may be maintained dry, even if watermay pass below the edge of the sole e.g. via the lower end of the outerlayer LOL , as the water cannot pass the seal formed by the combinedtransition of the lower end of the membrane LMEM and the sole S. Theseal should preferably extend along the entire circumference of thelower end of the membrane LMEM, ensuring that liquids cannot pass intothe foot insertion volume FIV.

FIG. 6 illustrates a possible cross-section in the longitudinaldirection of the footwear of FIG. 1 or FIG. 4 . In this case an upper Uis DIP'ed with a sole S. The upper U is formed by an outer layer OL anda membrane MEM. A lower end of the outer layer LOL is connected to theDIP'ed sole S at the lower end of the footwear and a lower end of themembrane LMEM and an insole IS are also DIP'ed to the sole S. The lowerend of the membrane LMEM and the insole IS have been stitched togetherby a stitching STI prior to the molding together with the sole S. Ananchoring adhesive (not shown) has been applied at the lower end of theouter layer LOL around the complete circumference of the lower end ifthe outer layer LOL to adhere the outer layer to the membrane MEM.

The illustrates merely serves to illustrates the embodiment of e.g. FIG.1 and/or the embodiment of FIG. 4 should feature a complete sealingaround the complete circumference of the attachment between the insoleIS and the lower end of the membrane LMEM.

FIG. 7 illustrates a possible cross-section in the longitudinaldirection of the footwear of FIG. 1 or FIG. 5 . In this case an upper Uis cemented with a sole S by means of an adhesive cement AC. The upper Uis formed by an outer layer OL and a membrane MEM. A lower end of theouter layer LOL is connected to the cemented sole S at the lower end ofthe footwear and a lower end of the membrane LMEM and an insole IS arealso cemented to the sole S. The lower end of the membrane LMEM and theinsole IS have been stitched together by a stitching STI prior to thecementing of the upper U to the sole S.

An anchoring adhesive (not shown) has been applied at the lower end ofthe outer layer LOL around a part of the circumference or around thecomplete circumference of the lower end of the outer layer to adhere theouter layer to the membrane MEM. The illustrates merely serves toillustrates the embodiment of e.g. FIG. 1 and/or the embodiment of FIG.5 should feature a complete sealing around the complete circumference ofthe attachment between the insole IS and the lower end of the membraneLMEM and also that the DIP'ed sole S or the adhesive cement AC may formthe main elements of a sealing arrangement ensuring that the lower endof the footwear, including the sole and the transition to the upper arewaterproof and that the upper is formed by a breathable footwear wall.

FIG. 8 a-d illustrates a number of different ways an anchoring adhesive,e.g. the anchoring adhesive of FIG. 1 or FIG. 2 may be applied aroundthe circumference of the lower end of the outer layer LOL. The differentembodiments illustrate different principles of the application of theanchoring adhesive of FIG. 1 and FIG. 2 when the footwear is seen fromabove. The illustrations are not strictly as seen from above, but servesto illustrate that an anchoring adhesive may be applied to the lower endof the outer layer LOL as earlier described in the above embodiments maybe applied at two sides, the medial and lateral sides of the lower endof the membrane LOL In FIG. 8 a such anchoring adhesive at the lateraland the medial side of the footwear is applied in two broken lines andsupplemented by a toecap TC at the toe end TEND and a heel cap HC at theheel end of the footwear. The toe cap TC and the heel cap HC arepositioned between the membrane MEM and the outer layer OL and adheredto both the membrane and the outer layer. The toe cap and the heel capmay advantageously be applied with a double-sided adhesive which may beactivated when positioning the respective caps in the footwear in orderto provide a stable 3D structure of the toe end TEND and the heel endHEND of the footwear. Such 3D function is well known, but in the presentembodiment, the toe cap TC and the heel cap further forms part of acircumferential anchoring adhesive anchoring the membrane at the lowerend to the outer layer at the lower end ad seen from the inside of thefootwear. It should be noted that the embodiment of FIG. 8 a is suitablefor a cemented footwear as a continuous circumferential adhesiveanchoring is preferred for a DIP footwear.

FIG. 8 b illustrates a further variant of the anchoring adhesive, wherethe anchoring adhesive AA is applied at and by means of the toe cap TCand the heel cap HC and a number, here: four, interrupted lines alongthe lower periphery of the outer layer at the lower end LOL. Thisembodiment is also most relevant for cemented embodiments of thefootwear.

FIG. 8 c illustrates a further embodiment where the is no anchoringadhesive AA between an adhesive toe cap TV and a heel cap HC. Themembrane MEM is thus, so-to-speak, suspended in the upper between thetoe cap TC and the heel cap HC.

FIG. 8 d illustrates and advantageous embodiment of the invention, wherethe complete lower circumference of the membrane LMEM is anchored byadhesive AA to the lower end of the outer layer LOL.

Due to the continuous implementation of the anchoring adhesive, thisembodiment in suitable for both cemented footwear and DIP'ed footwear asdescribed in relation to earlier DIP embodiments of the invention. Thecontinuous adhesive anchoring thus ensures that foam will not progressup between the outer layer OL and the membrane MEM during DIP of a soleto the upper.

FIG. 20 illustrates a further embodiment of the invention where acontinuous line of anchoring adhesive AA is applied between the completelower circumference of the membrane LMEM and the lower end of the outerlayer LOL.

Due to the continuous implementation of the anchoring adhesive, thisembodiment in suitable for both cemented footwear and DIP'ed footwear asdescribed in relation to earlier DIP embodiments of the invention. Thecontinuous adhesive anchoring thus ensures that foam will not progressup between the outer layer OL and the membrane MEM during DIP of a soleto the upper.

FIG. 9 shows a cross section in a longitudinal direction of anembodiment of the invention, where an upper, e.g. the upper U of FIG. 1or FIG. 2 comprises an outer layer OL and a membrane MEM.

A heel cap HC and a toe cap TC have been adhered between the outer layerOL and the membrane MEM in the toe end of the footwear and a heel cap HChas been adhered between the outer layer OL and the membrane MEM in theheel end of the footwear. Dashed lines are illustrating two continuousanchoring adhesive AA lines at the medial and the lateral side of thefootwear between the lower end of the outer layer LOL and the membraneMEM. Together the heel cap HC, the toe cap TC and the anchoring adhesiveAA lines provides a continuous adhesive anchoring of the membrane aroundthe periphery of the lower end of the outer layer LOL.

The toe cap TC and heel cap HC serves two purposes, namely providing a3D shape in the toe end and the heel end of the footwear while at thesame time functioning as an adhesive anchoring of the lower end of themembrane around the toe end and the heel end part of the circumferentialadhesive anchoring AA.

The toe cap and heel cap as applied above are in particular attractivein terms of manufacture as attachment in the toe and heel section forthe establishment of a stable shape are well known in the art andalready implemented as such in the manufacturing line at many footwearproducers. A modified attachment and mounting of the toe and heel capwith the footwear as a part of the adhesive anchoring of the lower endof the membrane may relatively easy be implemented in the manufacturingline and it is also noted that such process is relatively attractivewhen compared to a manual circumferential adding of an anchoringadhesive AA line in the toe end and the heel end of a footwear may besomewhat complex and difficult compared to the application of a toe capand a heel cap with double sided adhesive.

The toe cap TC, the heel cap HC the adhesive anchoring AA lines shouldthus first be applied to the layers and, in terms of the anchoringlines, then be activated prior to the total adhering of the lower end ofthe membrane LMEM to the lower end of the outer layer LOL.

The details of the lower end of the footwear, in particular the sole Sand the interfacing with the lower end of the upper is not described inthis illustration, but reference is made to FIG. 6 and FIG. 7 above,where a DIP version and a cemented version of the invention isillustrated. The toe cap TC and the heel cap as discussed above in thisfigure may within the scope of the invention be applied in FIG. 6 andFIG. 7 .

FIG. 10 furthermore illustrates a 3D positioning of an exemplary heelcap HC and an exemplary toe cap TC inside the upper wall between themembrane MEM and the outer layer OL e.g. as applied in the above FIG. 9.

Both embodiments are seen from the side of the upper which is eventuallyto be the inside of the upper U. In the illustrated embodiment themembrane has been partly attached at a part of the lower end of themembrane LMEN and a part has bee folded back towards the reader toillustrate the lines of anchoring the membrane to the upper.

After this step, the upper is going to the attached, preferably bystitching to an insole (not shown) to provide a sock of the upper

Subsequently, the upper is to be mounted on a last (not shown) for thefurther processing, including attachment of a sole to the insole of theupper sock by a DIP process or by cementing.

FIG. 11 a to 11 d shows simple principles of an exemplary design of atoe cap TC and a heel cap HC within the scope of the invention, e.g. asapplied in the above embodiments where a toe cap and a heel cap has beenapplied.

FIG. 11 a illustrates the 2D layout of a toe cap TC within the scope ofthe invention and FIG. 11 b shows the toe cap TC in a cross sectionshowing a double-sided application of adhesive DSA on both sides of thelaminate. The adhesive layers DSA may preferably be activated e.g. bysteam, heat or radiation.

FIG. 11 c illustrates the 2D layout of a heel cap TC within the scope ofthe invention and FIG. 11 d shows the heel cap TC in a cross sectionshowing a double-sided application of adhesive DSA on both sides of thelaminate. The adhesive layers DSA may preferably be activated e.g. bysteam, heat or radiation.

FIG. 12 illustrates a cross section of the toe end of a footwearperpendicular to the longitudinal direction of the footwear. The toe endof the footwear has been mounted with a toe cap of FIG. 11 a and 11 b onan insole and between the outer layer OL and the membrane MEM and thetoe cap has been shaped from a 2D structure to a 3D structure. The toecap TC has been adhered to the inside of the outer layer OL and theoutside of the membrane MEM.

FIG. 13 a and FIG. 13 b further illustrate a part of the manufacturingprocess of an upper e.g. as earlier described in relation to FIG. 1 andFIG. 2 , where the anchoring adhesive is applied to the lower end of themembrane LMEM and/or the lower end of the outer layer LOL at the dashedlines forming a circumferential adhesive anchoring AA. Thecircumferential anchoring AA in FIG. 13 a is continuous and interruptedin the embodiment of FIG. 13 b .

FIG. 14 a and FIG. 14 b illustrates a 3D view of an upper, e.g. theupper of FIG. 1 , where an insole IS has been stitched to the lower endof the membrane LMEM with a stitching STI without perforating the lowerend of the outer layer LOL.

FIG. 15 illustrates how direction of stitching STI is defined in thepresent context. The figure shows an upper, e.g. the upper U of FIG. 1as seen from below prior to attachment to a sole by either a DIP processor cementing.

The illustrated upper has been attached to an insole IS be means ofstitching STI to a lower end of a membrane MEM. Two sections, SEC1 andSEC2 have been shown to illustrate that a stitching in the presentcontext is understood as having a direction D following thecircumference of the insole IS. It may easily be understood from thefigure that the direction will vary around the circumference of theinsole as illustrated by the arrows. The direction of the stitching willthus be given by the arrows D and the direction of the stitching shouldat any point of the stitching be determined as the direction of thegradient of the progressing stitching pattern. In other word, a stitchlength of the stitching is to be determined as the stitch length in thedirection D of the stitching. The stitch length may, depending on theapplied stitch pattern vary somewhat depending e.g. whether the stitchlength is determined at a part of the stitching where the direction isrelatively progressing as a straight line or whether the progression ofthe stitching is bowed. The stitch length should be determined at a partof the stitching, which is progressing in a relatively straight line,i.e. e.g. in the illustrated section SEC1.

FIG. 16 a and FIG. 16 b basically serves to illustrates the meaning ofstitch length L and stitch width W when referred to a stitching appliedbetween a membrane and an insole within the scope of the invention.

FIG. 16 a shows the bottom of an upper, e.g. the upper of FIG. 1 and theupper as illustrated in the previous figure. A section of the stitchingof the membrane MEM to the insole IS by means of a thread TH is shownand the stitch length and stitch width are given by the arrows L and Willustrated. It should be noted that the stitch length is a well-definedterminology within the art, and the definitions in the present contextis referring to such understandings related to respective stitchingpatterns. Stitch may be given in e.g. mm and designate the length in thelongitudinal direction L between two stitch-tops and the stitch width isgiven as the width W.

FIG. 16 b illustrates an alternative and also well-recognized method ofdetermining the stitch length within the art, namely as stitch percentimeter.

FIG. 16 c illustrate how stitch length may be determined for aconventional strobel or zig zag stitching. The stitch length L, from topto top, is illustrated in connection with both stitch types and thestitch width is determined as W.

FIG. 17 illustrates further definitions to applied for the understandingof an embodiment of the invention.

FIG. 17 shows a section of a gathering of the lower end of a membraneMEM and an insole IS. In the present context please refer to thehighlighted section of fig. Ma. A distance, here called thestitch-free-distance STFD, is provided to designate the distance betweenthe stitching STI and the membrane MEM which is not overlapping theouter layer OL and forming part of lower end of the membrane MEM. Thisstitch-free-distance should typically be greater than 1 mm andpreferable be within an interval of 1 mm to 20 mm.

FIG. 22 illustrates the principles of controlling the stitch-freedistance STFD as explained in relation to FIG. 17 above and a so-calledmark-free distance MFD according to an embodiment of the invention.

Besides all the features of FIG. 17 , FIG. 22 furthermore shows marks MAwhich are made in the membrane MEM during stitching to the insole IS.These marks MA are set with a distance to the lower end of the outerlayer OL as shown in the figures as the mark -free-distance MFD.

The marks are typically made by a sewing machine during manufacture ofthe upper during the process step where the upper is stitched to theinsole IS. These marks MA are primarily made because the membranesapplied for the purpose of obtaining the waterproofness while stillbeing breathable are typically very thin. This thinness combined withthe relative weakness of the membrane (even if further layers of fabricare laminated to the membrane) results in that a sewing machine whenattaching the membrane to the insole are deformed or potentially damagedduring the process. It should be noted that there may often be asignificant difference in the thickness of the insole when compared tothe membrane. It is however noted that according to an advantageousembodiment of the invention, this distance may be kept extremely shortinsofar the stitching made into the membrane are made from theillustrated side of the combined upper and insole. It is noted that thestitching and the resulting marks, when made from the illustrated side(i.e. the outside of the upper and insole, then the outer layer willprotect the membrane during stitching as the feeder will set marks inthe lower end of the outer layer rather than make marks in the membrane.This is attractive as the marks set “below” the lower end of the outerlayer OL, e.g. in the area defined by the stitch-free-distance STFD maybe sealed during the attachment of the sole to the upper of which theillustrated section is a part of (not shown).

The stitches of the stitching STI perforating and engaging with thelower end of the membrane MEM may advantageously be made with astitch-free-distance to the lower end of the outer layer LOL being atleast 1 mm, such as at least 2 mm and wherein marks provided by afeeding mechanism of a sewing machine during stitching to the insole IShas a lateral distance MFD which is less than 10 mm, such as less than 6mm, such as less than 3 mm and wherein the marks MA are provided on theside of the upper to which a sole has been attached or is to beattached.

FIG. 18 a -d illustrates principles of an attachment of an insole (IS)with an upper (U) and a sole (O) of a cemented footwear according to anadvantageous embodiment of the invention.

In FIG. 18 a a cross-section of a partially viewed upper is shown. Thedepicted cross-section is shown to illustrate how the insole IS isattached to the upper U and the sole S. In an advantageous embodiment ofthe footwear, the illustrated attachment is performed around thecomplete circumference of the insole IS.

FIG. 18 a shows a lower outer layer LOL forming part of an outer layerof a footwear. The outer layer is attached by an anchoring adhesive AAto a lower end of a breathable waterproof member LMEM. The illustrationmoreover shows an insole IS to which the lower end of the membrane LOLis going to be attached.

FIG. 18 b shows that the lower end of the membrane LMEM and the lowerend of the outer layer LOL is pre-adhered with a first adhesive FAD. Theinsole IS is likewise applied with third adhesive TAD. These twoadhesives, the first adhesive and the third adhesive may in practice bethe same type of adhesive or they may be different as long as it can beactivated prior to adhering in the next steps.

FIG. 18 c shows that the pre-adhered insole IS and the pre-adhered lowerend of the upper, here seen as the assembly of the lower end of themembrane LMEM and the lower end of the outer layer LOL are stitchedtogether by stitching STI. The stitching perforates the the lower end ofthe membrane LMEM and the circumference of the insole IS

Furthermore, a sole S, e.g. an outsole, is provided with a pre-adheredsecond adhesive SAD.

In FIG. 18 d the first, second and third adhesives FAD, SAD, TAD havebeen activated and the sole S is pressed together with the lower end ofthe upper. The first adhesive FAD and the second adhesive SAD aregathered to form a combined adhesive between the lower end of themembrane LMEN and the sole S and a combined adhesive between the lowerend of the outer layer LOL and the sole S. In the same way a combinedadhesive is formed between the insole IS and the sole S by the third andsecond adhesive TAD, SAD.

It is noted that the perforations in the membrane provided in relationto the stitches of the stitching STI in the final product are sealed ina reliable way due to the application of the first adhesive previous tothe gathering of the insole and the outsole. It is furthermore notedthat the stitches of the stitching are mechanically supported by theadhesive to the outsole, thereby reducing the risk of unnecessarystretching of the lower end of the membrane during use of the use. Also,if the above process, typically performed on a last, has resulted in astretching of the perforations related to the stitching, such expandedperforations may be sealed effectively during the final cementing of thesole S to the insole IS, thereby resulting in a completely waterproofsealing WS extending from the insole to where the membrane is perforatedor ending at the attached upper. The water proof sealing is thus in thepresent context at least constituted by the lower end of the membraneLMEM, the first adhesive FAD sealing the stitches and optional damagedone to the lower end of the membrane during stitching, the secondadhesive SAD, the outsole if waterproof and preferably also the thirdadhesive TAD.

Different attractive embodiments within the scope of the invention maybe applied when cementing a footwear within the scope of the invention.Thus, in the above embodiment of a manufacturing procedure, stitchingSTI is applied subsequent to pre-adhering of the first adhesive FAD tothe lower end of the membrane LMEM and the lower end of the outer layerLOL and pre-adhering of the third adhesive TAD to the insole IS.

In an alternative embodiment of the process within the scope of theinvention, the first adhesive and optionally also the third adhesive TADis applied after the stitching. In practice such application of adhesivemay advantageously be applied when the upper has been positioned on alast (not shown).

After re-activation of the pre-adhered first adhesive FAD, thirdadhesive TAD and the second adhesive SAD the sole S the upper U and thesole S may be gathered under pressure and harden subsequently ortypically during application of pressure. In this way, adhesive may beapplied directly to the stitches after the upper has been positioned ata last and the stitches penetrating the lower end of the membrane hasbeen expanded.

Also, in this case, the lower end of the membrane with stitching,although stressed and very likely weakened during positioning on a last,may be directly and reliable supported and secured despite suchweakening

Other sequences may be applied within the scope of the invention as longas a first adhesive is pre-adhered directly on the lower end of themembrane preferably including on the stitching thereby obtaining bothstrength and sealing when re-activated and attached to a sole S.

FIG. 21 shows a resulting waterproof bottom sealing WBS providedaccording to the above described method of FIGS. 18 a to 18 d . Thewaterproof bottom sealing WBS is in the present embodiment comprised ofthe lower end of the membrane LMEM, a combination of the threepre-adhered adhesives, the first adhesive FAD, the second adhesive SADand the third adhesive. In the present illustrated embodiment, thewaterproof bottom sealing WBS also includes a waterproof sole S.

It should be noted that different configurations of a waterproof bottomsealing WBS may also be applied within the scope of the invention. It isthus noted that membrane LMEM, the first adhesive FAD, second adhesiveSAD by themselves may form a waterproof bottom sealing WBS.

In the present above configuration it is more or less implied that thesole S may be made of a waterproof material which is not necessarilybreathable.

Such configuration may e.g. be obtained by the use of breathablematerials in the sole D, the adhesives and or the insole IS.

It should also be noted that the footwear illustrated in the aboveembodiment should include, as explained in the description a waterproofa breathable membrane of which the lower end LMEM is shown. The rest ofthe upper may of course also be waterproof.

Other components of the footwear is not shown, although such componentsmay of course be applied according to the provisions of the invention.Such further components may include lining, further sole components,further sole inlay etc. (not shown).

In the illustrated embodiment the insole IS may generally be exchangedwith a string lasting as long as it is possible to connect the lower endof the membrane LMEM to the waterproof sole or waterproof sole part in areliable and sealable way and thereby still obtain a desired waterproofbottom sealing WBS. The application of insole is however preferred.

FIG. 19 a and FIG. 19 b illustrates a further embodiment within thescope of the invention for the use in cases where a stitching is appliedat the lower and of a membrane LMEM and an insole IS e.g. according tothe embodiment of FIG. 1 . The illustrated embodiment is a modifiedembodiment of FIG. 16 a now provided with a reinforcing member RM. Thereinforcing member may be a band or a string stitched or adhered to thelower end of the membrane LMEM as illustrated in FIG. 19 a . Thereinforcing member should preferably extend along the entire peripheryof the lower end of the membrane MEM. I may be positioned at theillustrated side of the membrane, below the membrane as seen from theview of a reader or et may be positioned on both sides of the membrane.

The reinforcing member RM is applied for the purpose of serving asupport of the stitching connecting the insole IS and the membrane MEM.The stitching STI must encapsulate the reinforcing member RM so as toensure that stretching on the lower end of the membrane MEM especiallyduring positioning of the upper on a last (not shown) is counteracted bythe reinforcing member RM

FIG. 23 illustrates a further embodiment within the scope of theinvention and illustrates a possible sectional view of an article offootwear FW of FIG. 1 . Here, the upper layers are described in moredetails wherein upper U comprises an upper top end UTEND, an upperintermediate area UINA and an upper lower end ULEND. The upper U isprovided by a membrane MEM and an outer layer OL and the membrane MEM isattached to the outer layer OL at the upper top end UTEND and the upperlower end ULEND.

The attachment of the membrane MEM to the outer layer OL of the uppertop end UTEND may be mediated by an attachment arrangement ATTA, such asadhesive and/or stitching. The attachment of the membrane MEM to theouter layer OL of the upper lower end ULEND may be mediated by anadhesive, such as an anchoring adhesive.

It should further be understood that there is not attachmentarrangement, anchoring adhesive or any attachment of the membrane MEM tothe outer layer OL of the upper in the upper intermediate area UINA. Thesize of the upper intermediate area UINA may vary according to thedesign of the footwear, the size of the footwear etc.

FIG. 24 illustrates a further embodiment within the scope of theinvention and illustrates a possible cross-section in the longitudinaldirection of the footwear of FIG. 1 and FIG. 23 . The upper U is formedby an outer layer OL and a membrane MEM. A lower end of the outer layerLOL is connected to the lower end of the membrane LMEM by an anchoringadhesive AA that has been applied at the lower end of the outer layerLOL around the complete circumference of the lower end of the outerlayer LOL to adhere the outer layer to the membrane MEM. A top end ofthe outer layer TOL is connected to the top part of the membrane TMEM byan attachment arrangement, ATTA e.g. adhesive and/or stitching. Thisattachment arrangement may e.g. form an upper circumference UC. Here, itshould also be understood that there is no attachment arrangement,anchoring adhesive or any attachment of the membrane MEM to the outerlayer OL of the upper in the upper intermediate area UINA.

FIG. 25 illustrates a further embodiment within the scope of theinvention and illustrates a possible sectional view of a footwear ofFIG. 1 . Here, the upper layers are described in more details whereinthe upper U comprises an outer layer OL and with a membrane having afunctional layer FUN in the middle, a protection layer e.g. a backingfabric BAC on the side facing the outer layer OL and a lining materialLIN on the side away from the outer layer OL of the upper U, the liningthus forming the inside of the illustrated footwear pointed in thedirection of a foot of a wearer of the footwear. The membrane may alsoconsist of two layers or more than three layers and the layers may be inthe form as a laminate attached by adhesives or other suitable means foradherence as long as the overall function with respect to waterproofnessand breathability is obtained. The layers may also be more looselyattached to each other where only parts or areas of the layers areattached. The layers may also include more than one layer of membranes.

Also illustrated in FIG. 25 is a space AIR e.g. a small distance betweenthe membrane MEM and the outer layer OL where there is no attachment ofthe membrane to the outer layer. This space is defined as the distancebetween the outer layer OL and the protecting layer of the membrane MEM.This space may vary somewhat in practice, and especially when thefootwear is worn on the foot as the membrane is loosely suspendedbetween the attachment arrangement ATTA and the anchoring adhesive AA.Of course, a few (not shown) suspension areas or points may be appliedbetween the mentioned attachment arrangement ATTA and the anchoringadhesive AA Little or no adhesives (or similar) attaches the membraneMEM to the outer layer OL between the attachment arrangement ATTA in thetop of the footwear and the anchoring adhesive AA as illustrated andexplained in FIG. 24 .

The lining material may be a material with strong moisture absorptioncapacity maximizing the comfort dry inner environment of the footwear.

The backing fabric may be constructed of a material knitted fromsynthetic fibers such as polyamide fibers.

The important part of the overall membrane is that part of the membranefacing towards the sole, here the backing fabric, is sealable with solematerial, adhesive or other appropriate sealant applied onto thesurface.

FIG. 26 a illustrates embodiments of the invention and shows examples oflocations of the attachment arrangement ATTA as also illustrated inFIGS. 23-25 . The attachment arrangement ATTA may be an adhesive and/orstitching and may be located with a distance from the top of thefootwear upper that depends on the design of the footwear FW.

The membrane is attached to an insole IS by stitching STI and the innersock-like membrane stitched to the insole is then cemented or DIP'ed tothe sole of the footwear.

Further and as illustrated in FIG. 26 b , the attachment of the membraneto the outer layer OL of the upper lower end may be mediated by anadhesive, such as an anchoring adhesive AA forming a lower anchoringadhesive circumference LAC.

FIG. 27 illustrates an enlarged version of a part of the cross-sectionof FIG. 1 here illustrated the distance between the lower edge of theouter layer LEOL and the lower edge of the membrane LEMEN as DIST B. Thedistance between the sole upper edge SUE and the lower edge of themembrane LEMEM is defined as DIST A. Furthermore, DIST C is defined atthe height of the anchoring adhesive AA area in a cross section from thebottom of the outer layer to the top of the outer layer where anchoringadhesive has been applied. The anchoring adhesive may e.g. bepre-adhered to the outer layer and to the membrane in two separateprocesses and the gathered and reactivated.

The height of the anchoring adhesive should in a preferred embodiment ofthe invention be at least 4 mm and/or between 4-20 mm, such as between5-15 mm, such as between 5-10 mm. The lower anchoring adhesive shouldpreferably have the aforementioned height and be unbroken along thecomplete anchoring adhesive circumference, including the anchoringoptionally formed by means of adhesive onto the toe cap and/or the heelcap.

In the present context it should be noted that it is desired keeping theheight of the anchoring adhesive as low as possible to ease the strobelsewing and the thereby facilitating a reliable sealing with few stichchallenges and folding of the membrane along the circumference of theinsole, in particular in the toe and heel end.

LIST

-   FW Footwear-   U Upper-   S Sole-   OS Outsole-   FIV Foot insertion volume-   OL Outer layer-   MEM Membrane-   OSF Outer layer surface facing the foot insertion volume-   OSO Outer layer surface facing outward-   BSF Membrane surface facing the foot insertion volume-   BSO Membrane surface facing the outer surface OSF-   UP Upper part-   LP Lower part-   UFS Upper facing surface of the sole-   SUE Sole upper edge-   GCS Sole ground contacting surface-   LOL Outer layer lower end-   LMEM Lower end membrane-   AA Anchoring adhesive-   IP Injection perforation-   MFD Lateral distance-   STI Stitching-   IS Insole-   LA Last-   AC Adhesive cement-   TC Toe cap-   TEND Toe end-   HC Heel cap-   HEND Heel end-   DSA Double sided adhesive-   SEC1 Section 1-   SEC2 Section 2-   TH Thread-   L Length-   W Width-   STFD Stitch free distance-   MA Marks-   MFD Mark free distance-   FAD First adhesive-   SAD Second adhesive-   TAD Third adhesive-   WBS Waterproof bottom sealing-   RM Reinforcing member-   LEND Lower end-   ATTA Attachment arrangement-   UINA Upper intermediate area-   TOL Outer layer top-   IOL Outer layer intermediate layer-   LIN Lining material-   BAC Backing material-   FUN Functional layer-   AIR Space-   LAC lower anchoring adhesive circumference-   TE Top edge-   UC Upper circumference-   UTEND Upper top end-   ULEND Upper lower end-   PT Posttreatment-   DIST A Distance A-   DIST B Distance B-   DIST C Distance C-   LEMEN Lower edge of the membrane-   LEOL Lower edge of the outer layer

1. A footwear comprising: an upper; and a sole, wherein the upperincludes a membrane and at least one outer layer, wherein the membraneis a waterproof and breathable membrane, wherein the membrane isattached to an insole and the membrane is attached to a lower end of theouter layer, wherein the membrane is adhered to the lower end of theouter layer by an anchoring adhesive, wherein the anchoring adhesive isresistant to post treatment, and wherein the insole is attached to thesole.
 2. The footwear according to claim 1, wherein the anchoringadhesive is resistant to a steaming process from the outside duringlasting.
 3. The footwear according to claim 1, wherein the posttreatment is a steaming process performed during lasting of the upper.4. The footwear according to claim 1, wherein the post treatment is aheating process performed during lasting of the upper.
 5. The footwearaccording to claim 1, wherein the insole is attached to the sole bystitching.
 6. (canceled)
 7. The footwear according to claim 1, whereinthe insole is a strobel sole. 8.-10. (canceled)
 11. The footwearaccording to claim 5, wherein a length of stitches of the stitching isat least 1.5 mm. 12.-19. (canceled)
 20. The footwear according to claim1, wherein the anchoring adhesive has a melting point of at least 50degrees Celsius.
 21. The footwear according to claim 1, wherein theanchoring adhesive has a melting point between 30-200 degrees Celsius.22-25. (canceled)
 26. The footwear according to claim 1, wherein theanchoring adhesive is heat-activated. 27.-32. (canceled)
 33. Thefootwear according to claim 1, wherein the anchoring adhesive is atleast one of; epoxies, methyl methacrylates, silicone adhesives, orurethanes. 34.-37. (canceled)
 38. The footwear according to claim 1,wherein the anchoring adhesive is a polyurethane, and wherein anapplication temperature of the anchoring adhesive is between 90-160degrees Celsius. 39.-59. (canceled)
 60. The footwear according to claim5, wherein the stitching attaches a lower end of the membrane to theinsole by stitches without perforating the lower end of the outer layer.61.-68. (canceled)
 69. The footwear according to claim 1, wherein thesole is injection molded to the upper. 70.-75. (canceled)
 76. Thefootwear according to claim 60, wherein the lower end of the outer layeris adhered around substantially a total circumference to the lower endof the membrane. 77.-106. (canceled)
 107. A method of manufacturing afootwear comprising an upper and a sole, wherein the upper includes amembrane and at least one outer layer, wherein the membrane is awaterproof breathable membrane, wherein anchoring adhesive is applied toa lower end of the membrane and/or a lower end of the at least one outerlayer to attach the membrane and the at least one outer layer, themethod comprising steps of: attaching the lower end of the membrane toan insole, lasting the upper on a last, subjecting the to post treatmentwhile the upper is lasted to obtain a desired 3D shape of the upperwithout reactivating the anchoring adhesive, and applying an outsole(OS) to the upper while the upper is lasted.
 108. The method ofmanufacturing the footwear according to claim 107, wherein the lower endof the membrane is longer than the lower end of the at least one outerlayer.
 109. The method of manufacturing a footwear according to claim107, wherein the step of attaching the lower end of the membrane to theinsole is performed by stitching.
 110. The method of manufacturing afootwear according to claim 107, wherein the step of attaching the lowerend of the membrane to the insole is performed by stitching, and whereinthe stitching attaches the lower end of the membrane to the insole bystitches without perforating the lower end of the at least one outerlayer.
 111. The method of manufacturing a footwear according to claim107, wherein the post treatment includes application of heat, steam,and/or radiation to obtain the desired 3D shape of the upper. 112.(canceled)